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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.